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Folk Hydraulic Ram Pump
This site is under construction. My plan is to share what I have learned about the amazing ram pump. So far I've uploaded some pics and videos. From here I will continue to detail the process we have gone through over the past 8 years in the installation (spring 2003), modifications and operation of our Folk Ram Pump.
Introduction:
Use the energy of flowing water to move water just about anywhere. We have harnessed a spring on our property and have used a ram pump to pump a continuous flow of water between 1.5 - 4.5 gpm up a rise of over 200 ft with nearly 1000 LnFt of run (in 200psi 1" poly pipe). Amazing!! And it's been running now for nearly 2 decades (installed 2003) with virtually no problems. Our biggest issue has been wanting to continually improve the overall system.
Our newest (summer 09) modification. First you'll notice the green 3" feed line (flex irrigation pipe) coming from the collection basin. This feeds the self-cleaning filter (a simple box with a screen for the best explanation see the video). This is sitting on top of one of our earlier improvements. Another Rubbermaid trash can. It is used to provide a back shock cushion between the drive line and the collection basin. It has been flexing with each pulse now for 4 yrs. The pulsating of this tank is what allows the self-cleaning filter to work. With each pulse in flows back through the screen and washes away any collected debris. Again, see the video.
Slice of tire sidewall makes the best washer for the constant bouncing of the flapper valve. Can't believe it took me nearly five years of cutting out pieces of various types of rubber gasket to figure this one out. Duhhh!
Haven't had to replace this one for several months now, and it's not showing any signs of wear.
Our pump was made by Jim Folk. He does not sell his pumps directly but through Real Goods company. He has always been available to help with any problems/questions I've had, and definitely stands behind his product. Parts can still be ordered directly from him at:
Jim Folk at Folk Water Powered Ram Pumps, 2770 White Court N.E.;
Conyers, Georgia 30207, Phone (404) 922-4918
Additional Resources:
Article from Home Power magazine describing rampumps. Thorough plans on a homemade version.
www.ncollier.com/rampumps.pdf
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Hacking our ram pump
Hacking our ram pump
Don't get me wrong, we are tickled with our Folk ram pump. It has been pumping away for over 5 years with virtually no problems. One of the inconveniences, however, was the need to charge the system with air every month. This is due to the fact that Folk pumps have a permeable membrane in the air chamber. Other pumps, that I've read about not seen personally, use a snifter valve to keep the chamber pressurized. The down side to this is a loss in efficiency, but then you don't have to add air monthly.
Well, I think we've figured out a way to work around this issue. Recently we discovered that our permeable membrane had totally broken. This occurred because we didn't get around to pressurizing the chamber often enough. When we went to replace it, it came over us that if we could get a non-permeable membrane in place, one might never have to add air again. The trick is getting the pressure equalized on both sides of the membrane while your setting things up, without bursting the membrane. You can't see inside to tell what's going on.
What we did, was to fill the lower part of the pump with water, then place a non-permeable membrane between this and the air chamber. The purpose of the water was to create a backing for the membrane while we pressurized the chamber. Once chamber was reassembled, we started to fill the chamber with air. We knew our operating pressure was between 95-100psi, (See Calculations below) so we slowly pumped up the chamber to that pressure. When we opened the feedline with it's back pressure, everything was equalized. We didn't hear any "pop" noise, and figure we now have a non-permeable membrane in place, the pressure set, and will never (or mostly never) have to add air again. So far, 3 days into it, it's looking good. If it's still running smoothly 3 months, 6months... from now, then we'll know we've got it.
posted to Blogger by RocketRob @ Sunday, August 24, 2008
update @ Aug 2022 Still running... we've had to rebuild the self-cleaning filter screen but haven't touched the pump since.
Calculations
Converting pressure in psi to head in feet
h = p 2.31 / SG (3) where h = head (ft) p = pressure (psi)
Our pressure converted to head/rise (Specific Gravity of H20 is 1)
h=95psi(2.31)/SG1
h=219.45 ft.
Run of 1" polypipe ~600 ft.
resource link: Engineering Toolbox
Below are images of out pump set up and storage tank with monitoring system.
Below are images of out pump set up and storage tank with monitoring system.
New backup pump
self-clearing input screen filter
Diagram of Ram Pump parts
Specs for our system:
Water supply - ground water spring flow apx 70 gpm
Drive "intake" pipe: 3" galv. 100' length
Fall height: 20'
Delivery pipe: 1" poly ~600' length
Delivery (Head) height: 219' (based on head pressure calc)
Storage tanks: 4 x 2500 gal (filled to apx 2400)
Delivery rate: between 2.5-3 gpm
backside water flow into main collection tank. Filter screening installed since this picture ~2022
Pump in actions
tank pressure with 200' head
supply tank with overflow pipe. Feed pipe to ram is the green one at the bottom
rubber tire piece for damper gasket
drive pipe covered with straw and plastic
self-cleaning filter set up
power box for future use
excess drive water flowing out of pump house
pump house sitting on concrete base
storage tank connecting lines
valves for shutting down 2 tanks in the winter
Four 2,500 gal poly tanks, wrapped with insulation. Gravity feed to houses
Water storage house
Water lines labeled, Note: pressure sensor added to 2" pipe at the "connection to other tanks"
Arduino box with ESP8266 module for monitoring sensors:
Ultra Sonic for water level, Pressure for backup water level, flow meter for pump running check
Analog guage test reading at pressure sensor installation point.
verifies pressure at ~8psi 58degF
Rebuild of water catchment tank Aug 2024
Rebuild of water catchment tank Aug 2024
In an effort to isolate the ground water source flowing from the hillside from any surface material/water contact the following was completed.
Flowing ground water was first covered with drain rock such that no running water was visible. Next a sheet of 7mil black plastic was laid on top of that with additional drain rock on top to hold things in place. It required a few larger rocks randomly placed to hold drain rock from sliding down the hill.
This was then covered with a delta rib tin roof spanning across the water source with an incline to one side where a perforated tube was split and attached to the edge to direct all surface water down and away from the groundwater source below.
Additional holes were drilled into the water inlets on the uphill side of the catchment tank in an attempt to catch more of the 'lower' water stream hitting the tank before it seeped around and under the tank.
Finally, a lid, separate from the tin roof structure, was added to allow easy access to monitor the catchment tank. (note: before the tin was laid across the tank and up the hill in one giant piece, making it very difficult to lift, plus this design did not completely close off access into the tank from things falling into it. Now all ground water is never exposed to the surface. It comes out of the hill, flows under the drain rock/plastic barrier and into the catchment tank, which feeds the 3" down hill water supply to the ram pump.
In addition to the catchment tank rebuild, we also scored some 24" metal culvert at the dump. This was split in half and used to cover the 3" pump Delivery Line. This protects the pipe and provides a sound dampening .
View of water flowing on the surface from the exposed spring. Partially covered with drain rock at the top.
Water flowing over rocks and being covered by drain rock
Capture tank inlets (with screen removed).
Drive pipe covered by half-pipe
Tin roof coverage of the new drain rock spring.
Two layers of drain rock separated by plastic sheet. Bottom layer to allow spring water to flow, top layer to separate surface water from groundwater spring
inlets expanded to capture water coming in lower in the tank.
Repairs to pump Aug 2024
Repairs to pump Aug 2024
After the breakage of the waste-valve shaft, a new assembly was taken from the backup pump. However the bronze bushing on the spider support was badly worn, so it too was needing replacement. This was accomplished by heating the housing around the bushing and then using an appropriately sized socket pounding out the old bushing and replacing with a new one. Jim had send some replacement waste-valve assemblies, which were then used to reassemble the waste-valve.
At this point a small leak around the rubber diaphragm was noticed and become worse upon tightening. After several attempts to find the correct type of rubber and sealant for installing a new diaphragm we finally got the pump up and running again.
Additional parts replaced or repaired were the pressure gauge (the old one was showing a zero value of 20), and the shrader valve (just for good measure). The capped off fitting for the old snifter assembly had also developed a crack and was spraying out, so a temporary fix of wrapping with rubber held in place with a hose clamp stopped the leakage. This will need a more permanent solution, but will require accessing the side of the pump housing to remove the cracked pipe nipple and replace with a stainless steel plug.
Notes for general pump workings
Notes for general pump workings
When the delivery line is completely full all the way to the storage tanks (and the tanks are at 100%) the head pressure is 95psi. By matching this pressure in the Air Dome, a solid rubber diaphragm can be used, which then will hold water separate from air, and the pump will require virtually no maintenance. A monthly check at the air dome check valve for the presence of water is a good idea to insure the diaphragm is still in tact.
Materials used:
Rubber Diaphragm: Use...
Adhesive: Use...
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